“Orso Polare” receives “warm” reception in Torino, Italy
Thursday, February 23rd, 2006 (Events)
The Forest Foundation Executive Director, Mary Katherine Williams, and President, Marc Dreyfors, attended the Winter Olympics in Torino, Italy, from Feb. 10th to the 20th, and while enjoying various events, protested the United States’ position on climate change and the Kyoto Treaty. Though few activists showed, TFF was able to learn about various environmental activities and issues locally and connect with numerous organizations and individuals sensitive to issues of sustainability. Orso received great support from both young and old. (See www.torino2006.com) The following are excerpts from their trip diary:
Friday, Feb. 10th
Long plane trip to Milan from RDU. Suffering from last minute errands (pick up Orso’s suit, etc.) and over a year without a vacation. Flew right in over Geneva, Valle d’ Susa, where the mountain events were held, and could see Mont Blanc (15K ft.) and the
Materhorn to the North, all radiant in the light of the rising sun. Torino sits at the base of the eastern edge of the Alps as they curve from the Mediteranean north and then to the east towards Milan and Cortina. The large alluvial plain, with glacier fed streams supplying the Po River, was evident as we flew in– rich soils. Milan Airport had recycling bins, wow! Signs were everywhere marketing the Olympics. Security was evident, but not excessive.
Ran into U.S. Men’s Luge fans in airport. They were high school buddies of one of team’s atheletes. We met lots of friends and family supportors over the week, which made us realize that the Olympics were really not about nation’s and corporate sponsors, but about lots of small communities, love and dedication, all of which are needed in heaps (as well as a bit of talent) to make it at this level.
Took shuttle bus to Torino. Clear day and could see snow covered mountains to the north and west, slightly obscured by the brown smog cloud, yuk!
Arrived downtown Torino, large city similar to Milan. Grabbed electric tram north to Hostel. MK almost has pocket picked by gypsy kids, who we kept running into during our trip as they were working the the city center’s tram stops. Grabbed the kids hand as it slid into MK’s pocket, told him no and gave them the cold stare. They exited the tram, realizing I was watching them. Felt sorry for them.
45 min. commute to Cascina Falchera (City Farm), home of “Ostello Verde” (Green Hostel).

Ostello Verde - Very cool farm complex on outskirts of Torino, that is a part of a system of environmental education and agricultural tourism centers. (See: http://www.agriturismopiemonte.it/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=33) It’s mission is to educate “bambinos” on where their food comes from and get them better connected with the land. It has 20 beds available during the winter months for visitors, but is unavailable during the rest of the year because of programs and kids. We had reservations for the whole trip to stay there, but realized the commute was going to be too difficult. We stayed one night, breakfast was awesome, fresh milk (“mooca”= cow) was amazing, and cancelled our reservations for the rest of the week, which we hated to do. The Director was wonderful and appreciated the contacts we gave her for NAAEE and ideas for integrated programming with other groups.
Wouldn’t it be cool to have a “Green Festival”-like event in Italy so all of these organizations could talk to one another?
When will Orso make his first appearance?
Saturday, the 11th
Packed up our stuff and headed back into town to look for a place close to Porto Nuova “Tren Stazzione,” which would allow us quicker and easier access to public transport to events and places. Noticed fuel station signs marketing “green fuels.” (See image with alps through brown haze in background).

Stopped by Mercedes dealership to check out diesel models. Fell in love with the ForFour and A180 models (See picture)- high performance vehicles, 4th generation common rail diesel engines that get 80 miles to the gallon. We saw the two door Smart Cars and lots of gorgeous diesels everywhere. Why aren’t they available in the US?

Saw the gypsy kids again at Porto Nuova. There was a gang of them and of course the guys were abusive and aggressive to each other and I felt sorry for the girls.
Wouldn’t it be nice if someone would collect these kids and focus their skills on something more productive, like working on the City Farm, teaching them some skill sets and showing them some TLC.
We found a hotel 3 blocks from the station that cost about the same as the hostel and signed up for the week.
Put on the suit and headed for the “tren” station. Having been through our first day of orientation, helped newly arriving, wayward English speaking folks with directions at the TrenItalia and Tourism information booths. Told them where to get maps, schedules, tickets and general directions. They appreciated me being there, helping draw attention to their service and making the station a little more festive. High-fived kids left and right. Lots of pictures. Danced with jazz band and staff (See picture).

Was worried about “Polizei’s” response to Orso, given that we had no permit, etc. Cops came by and told me in Italian that there is a law against wearing a mask in Italy and to be careful “despachio”. Orso thanked him and I took the head off whenever I felt the cops get nervous. The costume was hot so the opportunity was convenient.
Ran into a Candian X-country team coach at info. booth, who was looking for a place to stay, told him about Ostello Verde. He was very appreciative. He told me he had just ran in the elections as a Green Party candidate.
Ran into another Canadian, major pin collector who said he heard that the human sources of CO2 were only 2% and the majority of increases were due to underwater volcanoes…. Hmmm…what was his source? He said a Canadian radio program interview with Robert Felix on “Coast to Coast.” (See http://www.coasttocoastam.com/shows/2005/09/26.html; http://www.iceagenow.com/)
Wow, Googled his name and found it to be an entry into the world of the “naysayers” who use his book’s citations to prove global warming is not a big deal, but ice age is. Could not find one scientific review. Very disturbing the inconsistent logic of his argument, that human sources of CO2 are not the cause of our current climate shift so we should not be concerned about emissions, and the Earth is not warming, but cooling from geomagnetic flux. (good website:http://www.theoildrum.com/story/2005/12/9/31522/5910)

Orso headed for the main Piazzas and the Medals Pavilion for night on the town (see picture). Lots of comments, “Bella Orso,” hugs, pictures, high-fives.
Orso runs into Ice Fairy, a pantomime, outside the Egypt Museum (“Museo Egizzio”). Found they had lots in common: cold, ice, white, etc.
Orso growled affectionately; She didn’t say much, “cold shoulder”?
What would happen if Orso and Ice Queen hooked up? Would they make baby snowmen?

Dinner at Porto di Savona was excellent. Ran into Jamaican BobSled team party along Po waterfront (lot like Florence), whose sponsor is Fiat. Lots of girls in mini skirts, freezing, and Italian versions of “frat boys” running around. Fiat was the primary employer in Torino before a massive lay-off and factory closing. Much of the Olympic infrastructure, village, rinks, were built in the area near Lingotto Station, where the factory had been torn down and had been depressed by the closure.
Sunday, the 12th
Took tren to Bardonecchia to survey the Mountain venues and where we had reservations to stay Monday night. Train was sponsored by Target and had two young marketers giving away plastic noise makers. Having experience with Targets’ buyers and business practices, MK and I were somewhat appalled. The face of Globalization and “corporateering” reared its ugly head.
TJMax, the parent company, was renowned for beating up small artisan producer groups, luring them with massive orders but at prices that the artisans essentially lost money on. After their miked “spiel” in English and Italian, I commented to the English speakers in the compartment to ask them if the “gifts” were fairly traded or sustainably made. The Italian lady across from us commented, “nobody’s perfect.” That comment is reflective of the allure of consumerism and corporate globalization that we found pervasive on our trip. Italy was succumbing to this infatuation with simplicity, immediate gratification and not asking the hard questions.
Stopped in Bardonecchia (where snowboarding events were) to get maps and lay of the land, then jump on tren back to Oulx, where the bus shuttles were running people up to the other mountain events.
Headed to Pregalato, where ski jumping was held (See picture). Very fun to watch. Weather was cold. Bus ride was hairy, curving two-lane mountain roads. Buses passed every 15 minutes or so. Good service but slow going.

Back to Torino. Dinner at SFashion Café was awesome. Very “chic” place, great art.
Monday, the 13th
Off to Bardonecchia early, reservation at home was lost so stayed at Ostello, up hill, on the outskirts again. Very nice place. Ran into Lon, an “ecological psychologist/mathematician” from CT, who made his own buckskins, and was camping a lot. Quite a character and loved Orso.
Marc went skiing at Campo Smith, one of three areas open during the Olympics. Gorgeous day. MK went to see snowboarding up at Melezet, said it was a real alternative hip crowd.
Back to Ostello for Orso. Out on the town in Bardonecchia (See picture). Café had U.S. Women’s Luge team supporters, Erin Hamlin’s family from Lake Placid (lots of folks from Lake Placid). Orso big hit, everyone in agreement with position.

Orso checks his fan club email (See picture)

Tuesday, the 14th
Off to Oulx and Sestriere. Watched Men’s Combined Downhill. Could see the start and the skiers fly down the hill hitting jumps with the large puff of snow as they landed. View was great of mountain. Better than sitting in stands at bottom of run. Binoculars would have helped. Beautiful day. No snow in two weeks
Watched for an hour or so (See Picture), then headed to Cesana, for Men’s Biathalon. Took Gondola up over mountain and passed right over event. Headed back down the mountain and picked up tickets for Women’s Luge. Ticket office loved Orso.

Back up on the Gondola, passed through security. All the security officials wanted pictures with Orso.
Walked up to the tube, we were blown away by the speed of the competitors passing. You could follow them on the electronic map and screen monitor and then hear them coming, a split second they whipped by, just a blur. The large last curve was a great place to watch, highest G’s and fastest speed.
Orso gets interview on Aussie TV (See picture).

Tours around, doing his “schtick.” Kids, women, police, line up for pictures. Run into lots of Americans, talk it up lots of support. Some college kids debate whether Orso is cool or not, some not impressed. Goup of police stop Orso and ask for pass, Orso has no pockets, looks for MK… Orso is busted. Police do full search, Orso embarrassed, explains ticket is with companion. Police call to security folks, talk, then let him proceed. Wheew… it was close… visions of Orso in cuffs in the back of the police car, overnight in jail, Interpol mug shots…!
Headed back to Sestriere, caught end of Combined Slalom.
Headed back to Torino. Long day.
Quote of the day: “You look sexy in that outfit.” (No, it wasn’t by one of the police officers!)
Wednesday, February 15th, 2006
Slept late. Went to Corporate Sponsors Plaza. Lots of kids stuff (indoctrination) and macho guys stuff (reinforcement). Very distrurbing. (See “Alternative Future Olympic Village” blog).
Went to Short Track event at Palavela. Saw Apollo Ohno and Italy whip out-major bummer. Very fun, very fast.
New names for Orso: “Orso Popolare” (Popular Bear), “Marco Polar Bear”
Thursday, the 16th
Off to Courmayeur in Valle d’Aosta, northwest of Torino. One of the most spectacular valleys in Europe, home of Fontina cheese, Mont Blanc and the Materhorn and some of the best X-country skiing in and around Parque Nacionale Paradiso. Fog obscured the tren ride, arrive in Aosta and it was snowing large wet flakes. Took tren to Didier and then bus to Courmeyeur. Elevation change was substantial. Went from 200 meters to 1500 meters, with 5000 meter mountains leaping up from the valley on either side. giant boulders were scattered about the size of 4 story condos. Mountains were socked in.
Took gondola to ski area and rented skis. MK cruised the cute town. Great shops. Snowed 30 cm overnite and added another 10 that morning. Hard skiing. Late afternoon clouds broke and could get vistas, spectacular!

Headed home, worn out.
Friday, the 17th
Late start. Headed to Montagna Viva, a restaurant in the Lonely Planet guide book that was started by local organic farmers association. Sadly, it was closed but across the street was MezzaLuna, a health food store and café. We decided to try it and low and behold we discovered a gem. Ran into Kerri, who is good friends of Diane, a member of the Environmental Educators board (On which Marc serves) and contra-dance caller extraordinaire. Kerri was helping out the owners, learning Italian, teaching them English and had come in from Rome, where she is studying from a Yoga master, for the Olympics. We had a delicious vegan meal and watched as the tiny café serviced a very progressive Torinese crowd, one right after another. Kerri introduced us to a man who runs an herbal store next to Al Bicerin (home of the famous coffee, chocolate and cream drink) that had been in business for over a hundred years. There are something like 150 herbs available in the Alps, many of which come from Valle d’Aosta. Gave Kerri our vegetarian restaurant contacts in Milan and Florence from our previous trip.
Seems there is an alternative culture rising. Suggested the store partner with Cascina Falchera to develop a food program for kids, and told Kerri they should run seminars similar to the Living Foods program’s for adults and possibly chefs in the area, how to cook more sustainably and healthfully. In a sense, Italy is already much closer to eating sustainably, the food is fresh, there are close connections with local farmers, markets are everywhere, and the EU has a certification program and strict standards for products. However, creep is occurring as corporations try to infiltrate the markets in the name of efficiency and profits and consumers are influenced by marketing and desire quick and simple food. The growth of Brek, a cafeteria chain that serves, relatively healthy food, is an example.
Headed back to the hotel to pick up Orso and headed to the Piazzas. Stopped by police again and asked if I was sponsored by or represented a corporation. It is illegal for anyone to represent other than IOC certified or sponsor organizations. I said “no”, showed them my sign and they said have fun.
Hung in the Piazza for a couple of hours. Ran into Salmon Watch activist (who received support from the Moore Foundation, who TFF had also gone to for support and had been denied), who, amazingly, also had a suit, a salmon suit! He grilled Orso on security and getting into events. Told him it was a piece of cake, all the police knew him and half had had their pictures taken with him. Told him he would be willing to tell him all his trade secrets and wouldn’t it be cool if they hooked up, polar bear and salmon, to do activist work!
Check out: www.ortrout.org/4education/salmonwatch.html
Orso: “Salmon are friends, not food!?”

Headed to ice hockey and saw Canada whip up on Finland. Orso meets “Neve” and Gliz” the official Olympic mascots, snowball and ice cube. Tension was high, was it going to be a rumble? Neve extends a “hand(?)” Orso and Neve do the fist. Things are cool for the time being. The mascots know they are not nearly as cool or “popolare” as Orso.
Orso back in his seat, runs into lots of Canadians and Americans who buy him beers. Very supportive. Dare him to slalom down the aisles with the cheerleaders, yes cheerleaders at a women’s hockey event, scantily clad (wouldn’t men in chaps have been more appropriate?). Orso takes the dare and begins to mimic the pom-pom movements. A roar arises in the stadium. Orso sits, not wanting to undermine the focus and dedication of the athletes. It was a hoot.
Will there be other run-ins with the mascots Neve and Gliz? Stay tuned.
Apres hockey at a local bar near the hotel, Orso gets a $100 donation from a couple who do nature documentaries. They are very impressed with the grassroots effort, and we had a wonderful conversation with them. Thanks you all! XX’sOO’s!
Saturday, the 18th
MK goes shopping, Marc went to Sauze d’Oulx to ski. Dumped snow all morning till noon when it broke. Spectacular view of freshly covered mountains and valleys. Snow showers wrapped around mountain peaks and whisked through the valleys. Trees were glazed. Snow was powdery.
Saw a fox, very cute, size of a medium terrier, but short and stumpy, had the head and tail of a fox but the body was not as slim. Red, grey, brown in color. Would have made a much better mascot!
Head home, and grabbed Orso and went to Speed Skating. Could not find our buddies, the scalpers, with whom Orso had developed a close relationship. They had been cutting him deals all week- guys from the UK and Canada.
Orso heads to USA vs. Slovakia ice hockey, but its sold out. No tickets, and tough crowd, where’s the love? Help Orso out?
And we could have gone to Paolo Conte concert instead?!
Sunday, the 19th
Went to speed skating, Orso stayed home. Orso’s trip came to a close. We were sad to see him go.
While watching the closing ceremonies from home, we felt a certain connection with the atheletes, volunteers, and people of Torino, having cheered them on, partied with them and shared experience of world family. We knew if Orso were there, he would have been a bigger hit than Ricky Martin!
New plan: set up website for Orso and schedule him for future events, like Vancouver in 2010 (summer Olympics are likely to be too damned hot!). He is going global and is the “ultimate winter athlete!”

If you would like to help sponsor our trip, offset our carbon or lend some support, please contact us at 957-1505. The goal is to raise $1,200 to cover various costs of the trip.
